let's get shady.
What is redken shades eq?
One of my biggest lifesavers and favorite tools behind the chair is Redken Shades EQ. They are so versatile and have many different uses to up your game as a hairstylist. There is just simply no other product like them.
Shades EQ is a gloss liquid formula, demi-permanent professional hair color. Demi-permanent haircolor is a form of non-permanent color that gradually fades over the course of a few weeks. This type of haircolor is perfect for those who don’t want harsh root regrowth, are looking to try out a new haircolor, or who are interested in coloring their hair for the first time. As hair glosses are a gentler form of haircolor, they are a great way to change up your look without the total commitment.
My favorite ways to use shades EQ are:
Gloss - natural or color treated hair.
Tone - down or intensify natural or color treated hair
Smudge - add depth at the base for a lived in blended highlighted look
Correct - uneven, brassy or overly vibrant tones.
Refresh - faded haircolor
Shades EQ has an acidic pH. They provide outstanding color and shine. They have a liquid consistency which spreads easily and allows a quick bottle application. They process quickly, maximum time being 20 minutes.
When lifting hair, ash lifts out first leaving some residual warmth, the point of toning is to work with the warmth left in the hair to create your desired tone. Its almost like a math equation.
The desired end result = raw lightened hair (warmth) + toner shade (cool)
Pigmented present at a lifted level 9-10 is pale yellow, so you must have a violet base.
Pigment present at a lifted level 7 is yellow orange, so you must have violet blue base.
Pigment present at a lifted level 4-6 is red orange, so you must have a green blue base.
Crystal clear can be used to dilute any formula to keep existing blonde bright. I love using crystal clear on level 10 blondes so that my toners don't dull down the brightness. I also like crystal clear to create more versatility in my color cabinet. Instead of buying every level of each series I can dilute darker levels to a lighter formula with clear.
SHADES EQ series breakdowns
Gray base + blue
T = 4 cools + 1 warm
Green brown base
GN = 2 warm + 1 cool
B = 1 cool
Black to gray base + blue/violet
NA = 3 cools = 1 warm
If 09NA is used on a 9 yellow base you will pull green. Add V to formula to cancel yellow
Gray base + blue/violet
P = 3 cools + 1 warm
Brown tan warm base + blue/violet
N = 3 warms + 3 cools
If you use straight 09N on a yellow 9 you will still have yellow. you need to add V to neutralize
Brown tan base + red violet
NB = 4 warms + 2 cools
Brown tan base + gold
NW = 3 warm + 1 cool
GI = 4 warms + 1 cool
When used on a level 9 yellow the violet cancels out yellow and you are left with a warm buttery finish.
Add V to GI for a beige effect.
Gold beige base
GB = 3 warm + 1 cool
Gold yellow base
G = 1 warm
Double gold base
GG = 2 warms
Warm gold base + yellow/orange
WG = 3 warm
Copper base + orange
C = 2 warm
Auburn base + orange/red
AA = 4 warm
Copper brown base
CB = 4 warms + 1 cool
Red brown base
RB = 4 warms + 2 cools
Double copper base
CC = 4 warms
Copper red base
CR = 3 warms
R = 1 warm
Intense red base
RR = 2 warms
RV = 2 warms + 1 cool
Violet base, red/blue
V = 1 cool + 1 warm
SHADES EQ FAVORITE FORMULAS
Sandy Blonde = 09NB + 09N + 09V
Pearl Blonde = 09V + 09P + 09GI
Buttery Blonde = 09NB + 09GB + 09P
Beige Blonde = 09NB + 09V + 09GB
Cool Beige Blonde = 09NA + 09V + 09N
Champagne Blonde = 09N + 09NB +09P
Icy Blonde = 09V + 09P + 09T
Vanilla Blonde = 09V + 09NB + 09T + 09P
Warm Blonde = 09GI + 09N
Honey Blonde = 08V + 08GI
Copper Blonde = 09AA + 07C + 09RB
Caramel Bronde = 08V + 07NW + 09NB
Cinnamon Bronde = 08T + 05NW + 04 NB
Rosy Bronde = 05RV + 08GG + 08C
Here are a few of these toner examples in action!